Visiting a new place means immersing yourself in its landscape. Our first stop was the White Cliffs of Dover. With Vera Lynn’s enchanting voice setting the mood, we began the steep ascent past Dover Castle and into a protected area managed by the National Trust, the organization dedicated to preserving Britain’s historic and natural treasures. Although numerous trails beckoned, our day was already packed with activities, so we paused only long enough to admire the brilliant white chalk cliffs and capture a few photographs.
A literary side trip remained only in my imagination. About an hour west lies the town of Battle, named for the famous Battle of Hastings. While history buffs know it for the Norman conquest of 1066, I know it best as the setting of Elizabeth Jane Howard’s magnificent The Cazalet Chronicles. During the COVID lockdown, I spent an unforgettable week immersed in the lives of the upper-class Cazalet family, reading all five novels in succession. Visiting Battle would have been like stepping into a place I already knew, even if only through the pages of a book.
One aspect of life that has significantly affected my travels is weight gain and the sedentary lifestyle that often accompanies retirement. It became painfully apparent on this trip as I began crossing destinations off our itinerary. The battlefield at Hastings, Durdle Door’s dramatic limestone arch, and stretches of the Jurassic Coast all disappeared from our plans once I realized the amount of steep walking they required. Disappointed, I began to wonder whether this adventure would be defined more by what I couldn’t do than by what I could.
Then, quite unexpectedly, we discovered one of the trip’s greatest delights.
A weathered roadside sign simply read, “Swannery. Turn Left.” I immediately asked Mike to make the turn, and after a couple of winding miles we arrived at the Abbotsbury Swannery in Dorset. It wasn’t on our itinerary, yet it became one of my favorite memories of the journey.
This remarkable sanctuary for mute swans traces its origins to 1040, when Benedictine monks raised the birds as a source of food. In 1539, after the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the property was purchased by a local family and has remained in private hands ever since. Today, hundreds of graceful swans glide across the peaceful lagoon. We visited during cygnet season, watching fluffy gray youngsters swim close to their mothers, faithfully copying every graceful movement. Sometimes the best travel experiences are the ones you never planned.
As we continued west, another unexpected sight appeared on a hillside. A quick Google search identified it as the Osmington White Horse, an enormous chalk figure carved into the landscape in 1808 depicting King George III on horseback. The iconic landmark was carefully restored in 2012 in preparation for the London Olympics.
Rugged Cornwall has inspired countless authors, and it was easy to understand why. Susan Howatch’s Penmarric uses the Cornish landscape as an integral part of its sweeping family saga, while Rosamunde Pilcher’s beloved The Shell Seekers allows the dramatic coastline to become a character in its own right. Standing amid the windswept scenery, I felt as though I had stepped into the pages of both novels.
Another literary landmark awaited us in the distance. St. Michael’s Mount, the enchanting tidal island that can be reached on foot at low tide, first captured my imagination while reading Louisa Morgan’s A Secret History of Witches. Time didn’t allow us to cross the causeway, but on our next visit to Cornwall I intend to linger long enough to explore it properly.
We stayed just outside Padstow on Cornwall’s north coast, about twelve miles from Port Isaac, the picturesque fishing village that portrays the fictional Portwenn in the beloved television series Doc Martin. The show’s devoted fans have helped transform the village into a thriving tourist destination. Despite the steep hills, we wandered from the car park to the harbor, rewarded by postcard-perfect views of fishing boats bobbing in the water.
Naturally, we sampled a traditional Cornish pasty—a hearty meat-filled pastry that would probably be even more satisfying on a chilly autumn afternoon. Later, we boarded a small coastal boat, perched on seats that resembled horse saddles as the vessel bounced over the waves. The ride itself was exhilarating, but the highlight came when a playful pod of dolphins surfaced alongside us, dancing through the water against the backdrop of Cornwall’s rugged cliffs.
Our final stop was Richmond, forever associated in my mind with the endlessly optimistic Coach Ted Lasso. After seeing the charming neighborhood where much of the series was filmed, it was easy to understand why the production chose it. With its leafy streets, welcoming pubs, and riverside setting, Richmond seemed the perfect place to conclude a journey that reminded me that travel isn’t about checking every destination off a list. Sometimes the unexpected detours become the stories you remember most.
