Several years ago, I read a novel, “Madame Pommery, Creator of Brut Champagne,” so detailed that I questioned its facts and discovered that Louise Pommery really did live in the Champagne region of France, specifically Reims, and was widowed in 1860. Instead of continuing a future in wool, this savvy woman chose to produce champagne. One of her best markets for the product was the English, who did not enjoy the sweet, sparkling wines served with dessert in France. She created a dry, or brut, wine, which eventually proved immensely popular. She also bought up the ancient Roman chalk pits owned by the city (called crayères), linking them together, and used the cellars to store her products, a practice that other houses emulated.
When I began researching for a road trip to Northern France, I discovered that the Champagne Pommery still exists and offers tours. I knew this was a must-see; much of my travel is inspired by what I read. We chose a tour with lunch. The adventure began with a walk down 116 steps to reach the cellars. In Madame Pommery’s time, she employed the sculptor Gustave Navlet to create bas-reliefs on the limestone walls.
The tradition of art and wine continues with this year’s theme being “Melodies en sous-sol,” which incorporates sound and light to create interactive art that lines the walkways of the tour. One of my favorites was “Avoir des papillons dans le ventre,” a forest of butterflies that surrounded us as we made our way through the dark.
Following a tour of the vast wine cellars, we were taken to a restaurant and given a choice of appetizers, main course, and dessert. With each came a particular champagne to enhance the experience. I have not drunk champagne very much because the last bottle we purchased was rotten and had to be thrown out. My knowledge of wine is minimal, so I have stuck with Prosecco. It was a delight to taste the first sip of dry, bubbly goodness. It was crisp, cold, and fruity, and most of all brut – everything I enjoy in a wine. The other glasses were perfect, but the first one was the most memorable. History, wine, and good food made for an unforgettable experience.
