About an hour northwest of Florence, stands a walled city, Lucca. With ruins from ancient Rome and Renaissance walls and buildings, it is a unique vacation experience. Driving in on narrow, one car only streets, we were fortunate to have chosen a hotel that was easily accessible and its owner parked our car for us, so there were minimal troubles that are usually associated with historical drives.
The area is flat, somewhat an anomaly for Italy and the city retains some of its Roman grid-like street structure; walking was comfortable. We sat outside for lunch beside of the former amphitheater now known by its circular piazza; the long ago arena silenced by at least three meters of earth. Due to construction of temporary buildings for a Comic Festival, and bouts of pouring rain, it was difficult to imagine its glory days. Instead, we reveled in the local soup, Zuppa Frantoiana, a mixture of beans and vegetables like pumpkin and Tuscan kale. With a glass of wine, most inconveniences can be endured.
Nicknamed the “City of 100 Churches,” Lucca may not have that exact number but enjoys numerous religious buildings to explore. We began with Basilica of San Frediano, one of the oldest sites in the city, having been used since the 6th century. The mosaic on the facade is the Ascension of Christ, created in either the 13th or 14th Century.
Making our way to a museum dedicated to the composer Giacomo Puccini, we happened upon the church of San Michele in Foro, stone and marble columns watched over by Saint Michael. Inside lies the remains of Saint Davino of Armenia, who died in the city. Also to be admired is “Madonna and Child” by artist, Paolo Guidotti, known as Cavalier Borghes, painted around 1615.
The best was yet to come with a visit to St. Martin’s Cathedral. This was the first place to charge admission and yielded quite a few treasures. Founded in the 6th Century, a Labyrinth greets all who come to see the Volto Santo (Holy Face), a wooden crucifix with a legend to accompany its presence. This holy structure is considered to be an acheropita image or one not made by humans. A narrative to explain the piece was created by Leboinio, a deacon, in the 12th Century. In it there is the proposition that relics sculpted by Nicodemus, a disciple of Jesus, arrived in the Roman era around 782. Nicodemus thought carving the face of Jesus to be impossible so he found an already sculpted image. There’s a great deal more to the story but carbon dating does place the crucifix’s origin from 770 and 880 AD. So it is indeed a precious piece of history. The Volto Santo is normally housed in a protected temple, but due to restorations, was behind glass for all to see.
For me though, the treat is to accidentally come upon something that brings joy. In this case, it was a painting, the Last Supper by Jacopo Robusti, a Venetian artist better known as Tintoretto. Painted in 1594, it depicts a different tone than Da Vinci’s famous painting of the same name. Most notable is the mother breastfeeding to juxtapose physical feeding with the spiritual food offered by Jesus.
Lucca was the birthplace of Giacomo Puccini, who composed such operas as Madame Butterfly and La bohème. He lived in there for twenty-two years and the places honors him with streets, businesses, and even food named after his operas. We, in fact, were given the Tosca Room at our hotel. Puccini’s daughter-in-law is credited with the donations of the pieces and and money to secure their future. It was awe inspiring to see a real Steinway played by Puccini.
We concluded our trip at a winery overlooking the valley of Lucca, specializing in local Tuscan wines. It made for a relaxing trip home.
